The largest challenge an archer tends to face is damage. At least the martial section will be touching upon Archers geared for Extreme Ranges (due to terrain and spot difficulties, such ranges are usually impractical so it's not the primary focus).A majority of the guide will deal with Long Range (all non-Precision characters).Sneak Attacking Archers mostly deal with Extended Point Blank Range.The Swift Hunter-section will obviously be for the short ranges.High attack bonuses help too, of course.Īs for a breakdown for the class specifics: A Fighter Archer with Ranged Weapon Mastery, Dragonbone Bow, Far Shot/Distance-weapon and levels in Cragtop Archer can probably still act effectively given the means to detect opponents, but usually it already starts to take effort and specialization to function at such a range. To effectively act at such a range, you tend to need uncanny means of detecting opponents, be it ridiculously high spot check or some divination magic/spotter, and very high attack bonuses or long range increments to act effectively. Most Cleric Archers and other non-Fighter Archers tend to operate at this range. At this range, you can generally pepper the opponent with a few full attacks before they close in to casting/melee range and free damage never hurt anyone. This is generally one-two increments away and a range where normal characters can still succeed their spot checks, so a good range to start an encounter at for a non-Precision Damage Archer in wilderness areas. This is generally also the maximum range you'll have to deal with in dungeons. If you can move after attack, this range gives you relative safety and alpha strike capability as an average movement speed of 30' cannot charge beyond 60'. This is the range for Precision Damage Dealers with range extending feats, such as a Swift Hunter with Ranged Skirmisher. This is also the standard move action, so acting at this range is almost as dangerous as fighting in melee. The common Swift Hunter Archer is going to want to visit this range quite often and this is also the range for a normal Rogue to Sneak Attack. This is the range for Point Blank Shot, Manyshot and the range limitation for most sorts of Precision Damage. Archery is easiest divided to range categories: SRD = System Reference Document Īrchery is a pretty large umbrella for a form of attacks, so a bit more accurate separation will help with dealing with particular builds and the capabilities we'll be looking for in each category. PF SRD = Pathfinder System Reference Document Not all of the sources are used in the present guide the listed abbreviation is what I'll be using should I happen to add material.įRCS = Forgotten Realms Campaign Settings (3.0) Purple options are godlike these are the cream of the crop and if you can, you should be picking them up. Red options are rated as bad, and should by and large be avoided.īlack options are average and probably have specific niches or are good options in the absence of others, but are nothing special.īlue options are good options and if they happen to sync with what your character is doing, you should probably pick them up.
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Zone VE: These are coastal high-hazard areas where wave action and/or storm surge are factors.Zone AH: These are areas subject to inundation by 1-percent-annual-chance shallow flooding (usually areas of ponding) where average depths are between one and three feet.Zone AO: These are areas subject to inundation by 1-percent-annual-chance shallow flooding (usually sheet flow on sloping terrain) where average depths are between one and three feet.However, because no Base Flood Elevations (BFEs) or depths are shown, these are often referred to as 'Unnumbered A Zones' or 'Approximate A Zones'. Zone A: These are areas subject to inundation by the 1-percent-annual-chance flood event.In addition to the most common flood zones, which are listed above, there are some additional flood zones as well, below are a few of them: Additional information about FEMA flood maps and flood zones can be accessed at. Collaborating with a professional Land Surveyor can yield valuable insights into this subject matter. The actual concern lies in identifying which flood zone your property is in and comprehending the associated risk level. It's crucial to remember that every property finds itself situated within a flood zone. This zone is seen as carrying a minimal risk of flooding. Zone X (Unshaded): An unshaded Zone X indicates an area that harbors less than a 0.2% chance of flooding each year, thereby earning it the title of the 500-year flood plain.Typical shaded Zone X areas include those shielded by a levee, or relatively flat areas adjacent to Zone AE, possessing less than 1 foot of drainage depth per square mile. These locales are perceived as bearing a moderate risk of flooding. These regions lie between the boundaries of the 100-year and the 500-year flood plains. Zone X (Shaded): A shaded Zone X represents an area that encounters a 0.2% to 1% chance of flooding annually.Over the lifespan of a 30-year mortgage, the property located here has a 26% chance of being subjected to a flood. These territories are deemed to be at high risk of flooding. Zone AE: An area demarcated as Zone AE possesses a 1% probability of experiencing a flood annually, thus earning it the label, the "100-year flood plain".FEMA's flood maps delineate zones that are further subdivided into distinct areas. Each tract of land is meticulously mapped and categorized into a specific flood zone. Flood zones are geographical areas delineated by the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA). This coupon code can typically be found online or in-store, and you can apply it at the time of checkout when paying for your passport picture. What is a CVS passport photo coupon code?Ī CVS passport photo coupon code is a special code that allows you to receive a discount on your passport photo taken in person at a CVS pharmacy.
My new laptop gets great FPS with Ostriv, and it's the only game that I can immediately recollect where I get better frame rates further zoomed out, where is where I enjoy playing the game to have a better overview, I'm guessing some things don't render the further you zoom out, I'm pretty sure that I'm seeing the LOD of trees really change as I zoom out which is great so that we can get nice frame rates zoomed out too. I can't remember exactly but I think I could get up to about 300 population before it wasn't much fun any more due to slower (but still playable) frame rates. Last year I use to play this on my old Asus G74SX laptop that only had an Nvidia GTX 560M video chip (1920x1080) and could easily get 30 FPS but as expected the frame rate would drop as the population went up. Post processing off, reflection off, anything you see as CPU dependent - off. min GPU for 30-60 FPS is Nvidia GT 1030 for small resolution like 1280x (anything from 1st gen of Nvidia cards has support for OpenGL 4.3 and up to 4.6). Min CPU for 30 FPS is Intel Core Duo E8400/8500. I will fix that for next release, thx for the input. It can improve things if issues we're having caused by steam. Correct the Smooth1 Formula to 'Formula100- ( (CPUTemp-CPUminTemp)/ (CPUmaxTemp-CPUminTemp))100' and the LineStyle3 ValueReminder Option to 100 in all 3 CPU-x-Core Skin files. Its located in the GadgetsResources folder. If you are still having the issue where Notepad (or your preferred editor) is not opening the file, open the file manually. try to use drm free version if you have it or cut down all steam features (no overlay, offline mode, small mode so no chat bloat etc). Click the Notepad icon or the 'Edit HWiNFO Settings' link in the Settings to open the HWiNFO.inc file. My village now is almost 600 people and game performs great. I have noticed that game started to run much better without steam and I no longer had performance issues at winter. Yesterday my game refused to start (I blame steam for that) so went ahead and used it without steam (as drm free, just copied my saves and settings over to new folder). Otherwise you're in the frying range.Ībout game performance itself. Your cooler should keep temps way below 80C even under max load. If you have occasional spikes up to 100 C you have to re-check if your cooling systems are properly installed and if it works. both GPU (passive) and CPU have 30-40 C when operate in desktop mode. I played with stats HUD on for a while, my GPU and CPU never raised past 60 C (PC) and that's pretty much the same I'm getting with any other game. rmskin fileĥ.Game definitely does nothing to up your temps. Make sure you have downloaded the "OpenHardwareMonitorPlugin.dll". Processor Default: 0 If set to 0, measures the average of all CPU cores.If set to a number (1, 2, etc.), measures a specific CPU core.Value. Copy exactly how it is written in Open Hardware MonitorĤ. Options General measure options All general measure options are valid. Replace CPU and GPU name variables with your own, under the VARIABLES tab. I personally also turn on "Start Minimized", "Start to Tray", "Minimize on Close"ģ. In Open Hardware Monitor "Options", set "Run on Windows Startup". Have Open Hardware Monitor downloaded prior to loading skin (Made with version 0.9.6)Ģ. If these authors or any users have any issues or suggestions with my adaptation, please get in contactġ. ini file for setup guide.Īdapted from Meddx's "Dashboard" and Patrick Stillhart's "Spinner". Created with version 0.9.6 but I assume it should work with other versions. It uses Open Hardware Monitor as the source for the data so make sure you install it. Its my first rainmeter creation so let me know if you encounter any issues. Hey all, I've made a small widget style skin for background monitoring of CPU and GPU temperature, usage, and clock speeds. NEW VERSION AVALIABLE FOR 2024 (INCLUDES VIDEO TUTORIAL) |
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